Walk - Bay Valley of Rocks, Wester Wood

3.3 miles (5.3 km)

A39-Layby on Countisbury Hill A39-Layby on Countisbury Hill

Moderate - Footpaths, quiet lanes, woodland paths, some ascent and descent. In places the path is narrow and the drop to the sea can look daunting, so you will need a head for heights.

Iron Age hillforts, Saxon-Danish battles, a Domesday manor and a twentieth-century tragedy, all in a spectacular setting, first along a path high above the dark sea at Lynmouth and then through idyllic woodland with bubbling waterfalls and a quietly chuckling river. A lovely walk in spring, when swathes of bluebells and wild garlic are dotted with celandines and the air rings with birdsong.

There are a range of wonderful places to lay your head near the Coast Path for a well-earned sleep. From large and luxurious hotels, to small and personable B&B's, as well as self-catering options and campsites. The businesses that support the Path, where you've chosen to visit, are listed here.

Exmoor Bunk House

Surrounded by dramatic valleys, rugged moorland and an impressive rocky coastline, the 18-bed Exmoor Bunkhouse is the ideal holiday destination for intrepid explorers of all ages.

Berry Lawn Linhay Bothy

Sleeps 4. The former farm building offers a simple, basic walkers’ overnight shelter.

Orchard House Hotel

Friendly, homely atmosphere. Full English breakfast, licensed bar, kit drying, luggage transfers,single occupancy reductions,walking parties welcome as well as pets & children

Lynmouth Holiday Retreats

Set in a truly picturesque part of the country; the Exmoor National Park has stunning views from almost every pitch on the park you can admire the view

Bath Hotel

The Bath Hotel is a family run hotel overlooking the harbour in the picturesque village of Lynmouth, where Exmoor meets the sea.

Sinai House

4 Star accommodation with incredible sea views, offering peace and tranquillity. "Where Exmoor meets the Sea". Ideally located for the South West Coast Path.

St Vincent Guest House

Beautiful grade II Georgian B&B in the heart of Lynton, minutes from the coastal path. Packed lunch by arrangement & all diets catered for.

The Crown Hotel

A warm welcome awaits at the Crown Hotel, originally a coaching inn. Located in the heart of Lynton, a quiet base to explore N.Devon's rugged coastline. One night stays and dogs welcome.

South View Guest House

We look forward to welcoming you to our newly refurbished & upgraded Edwardian Guest House. Ideally located for pubs, restaurants, shops and the spectacular North Devon Coast Path.

North Walk House

Right on the SW Coast Path. Adults only, no dogs. Lounge, bar, terrace with amazing coastal views, free wi-fi and some parking

The Denes Guest House

The Denes offer locally sourced food and comfortable en-suite bedrooms, facilities to dry outdoor gear and a selection of maps. Books, DVDs and board games for relaxation.

Exmoor Coast Holidays

Campsite on working Cider Farm, Shop, off Licence, Restaurant and Bar

Cloud Farm Campsite

Stunning Views. 10 electric hook ups. Onsite shop, washing up area, toilets and showers on site

You'll be spoilt for choice for where to eat and drink along the Path. With lots of local seasonal food on offer, fresh from the farm, field and waters. Try our local ales, ciders, wines and spirits, increasing in variety by the year, as you sit in a cosy pub, fine dining restaurant or chilled café on the beach. The businesses that support the Path, where you've chosen to visit, are listed here.

The North Cliff Hotel

Right on the SW Coast Path. Families & groups welcome,dog friendly,free wi-fi,drying room,bike storage,lounge,bar,terrace with amazing sea views, parking,2xEV chargers
What is on your list of things to do when you visit the Path? From walking companies, to help you tailor your visit, with itineraries and experts to enhance your visit, to baggage transfer companies and visitor attractions there are lots to people and places to help you decide what you'd like to do. The businesses that support the Path, where you've chosen to visit, are listed here.

Exmoor National Park Visitor Centre, Lynmouth

Discover walking routes and information on places to visit in the Exmoor area

Lynton & Lynmouth Tourist Information Centre

Information on where to stay, local food and drink, festivals and events and things to do in these picturesque twin villages on the edge of Exmoor.

Interactive Elevation

Route Description

The walk starts at a layby on the inland side of A39 going up Countisbury Hill - EX35 6ND

To get to the start of this walk a car is definitely preferable! Leave the Hotel and drive down Castle Hill passing the Church on your left. At the bottom of Castle Hill, take a very sharp left onto the B3234 down towards Lynmouth. After a hairpin turn the road crosses the bridge over the River Lyn. Keep on the A39 main road signposted Porlock and Minehead, as it veers left and then heads uphill between the trees. Emerging from the trees let the passengers look for a small layby on the right allowing the driver to concentrate on the ascent. If you reach Countisbury, you have travelled way too far. Alternatively park in the main car park at the bottom of the hill in Lynmouth.

  1. From the layby on the right-hand side of the road, cross the road and find the path opposite which drops a little way down the hillside and joins the Coast Path. Turn right onto the Coast Path. Ignoring the path leading away to the left halfway along, stay with the Coast Path for about a mile as it travels between the sea and the road.

The path to the left en route leads to Sillery Sands, now rather more shingle than sand, but an exciting place to explore for those of an adventurous bent. There are interesting rock formations and mineral deposits on the rocks. Be sure to check out the tide tables first, however, as the beach can be quickly cut off by the tide, making escape possible only for those with climbing experience and equipment. Storms sometimes damage the steps at the bottom of the path, too, so take particular care if you decide to venture down. 

The building ahead and above, on Butter Hill, is a former maritime lookout post, used to observe commercial shipping in the Bristol Channel. 

The church below the lookout post is the St John the Evangelist Church at Countisbury. In 1086 the settlement of Countisbury was recorded in the Domesday Book as having a population of about 75, with a sizeable acreage of woodland and pasture land, putting it in the middle range of wealth at the time. Just over a century later, around 1200, Henry III gave the manor, along with that of Lynton, to Ford Abbey.

  1. About 300 yards after the Coast Path starts to pull seawards, away from the road, take the path leading sharply uphill to your right, heading for the road, and beyond it to Wind Hill.

The name Countisbury is thought to derive from a Saxon word meaning 'camp on the headland', referring to the Iron Age hillfort which was on Wind Hill. You will notice the marker to your right on the Coast Path. Its enormous ramparts extend from below you on the path all the way up the hill to the mound at the top, and it was a prominent site during the Iron Age. In addition, there are two smaller Iron Age sites on the far side of the hill (see below). 

Wind Hill is also said to be the location for a battle in AD 878, when a Saxon army led by Odda defeated a party of Viking invaders led by Hubba the Dane. This was a battle of some consequence, being a notable defeat of Danish invaders by an army led by someone other than King Alfred. However, other places also claim the battle as their own, including Northam, further down the coast near Appledore.

  1. Cross the road and pick up the left-hand one of the two paths beyond, following it downhill and into the woods.
  2. When you come to the fork in the paths, take the right-hand one and follow it along above the river for about two miles, ignoring all the paths heading away on both sides (although there are wonderful spots for a picnic beside the river if you want to do a detour to the left for this purpose).

The thickly-wooded hills shadowing the river here on the opposite bank are known as 'The Cleaves', cleave being a steep-sided valley whose name is derived from the Anglo-Saxon word 'cleof' meaning cliff. There is another Iron Age fort on Myrtle Cleave, and a dramatic summit with spectacular views at Oxen Tor, between this and Lyn Tor.
This is the East Lyn River, notorious for the part it played in the tragic flooding of Lynmouth in 1952, when 34 people lost their lives.

  1. About 250 yards after the path runs onto the road, take the road to your right, pulling sharply uphill towards the Countisbury Lodge Hotel. Zig-zag up the hill, passing the hotel, and keep going to the top, where you emerge once more onto the A39 on Countisbury Hill.
  2. Cross the road and join the Coast Path as it snakes along the bank at the side of the road, until you return to the layby at the start of the walk.

Dogs are allowed on Lynmouth Beach throughout the year.

Return to the Hotel reversing the travel directions at the start of the walk


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