Walk - Trethias Farm - Bedruthan Steps
Walk information provided with help from Natural England. Map reproduced by permission of Ordnance Survey on behalf of HMSO. © Crown copyright and database right 2024. Ordnance Survey Licence number 100022021.
Route Description
- Coming out of the Trethias Farm campsite, turn left and follow the path towards the coast, turning left on the South West Coast Path.
Due to the active erosion of the cliffs on this walk, it is advisable to stay away from their edges, as they may be undercut. At Fox Cove, the remains of a tanker are visible, 'Helmsley I', wrecked on its way to a breakers yard in 1969.
Here and further along this coastline you may see seals hunting for fish. This section of coast is unusually indented with narrow coves formed as the sea has eroded the weaker bands of rock, leaving the harder rocks as headlands.
- The Coast Path continues straight ahead past the series of headlands, but detouring on the smaller paths hugging the coastline gives an interesting view of the dramatic formations caused by the pounding of the waves.
The landowners here are working with the RSPB to protect the corn bunting, which features on the International Union for the Conservation of Nature Red List of Threatened Species as a bird in danger of global extinction. Intensive farming operations in the past destroyed vital habitats and food sources. Traditional methods of land management are being used in many places along the Cornish coastline to restore the corn bunting population. It is a stout, dumpy brown bird which flies off with a fluttering flight and with its legs characteristically 'dangling'. Look out for them in the fields on your left, foraging for food or singing from the fence posts.
There is a network of paths through the heathland here, but the Coast Path continues around the coastline, with more examples of spectacular coastal erosion.
Please keep dogs on a lead along this part of the walk. There are often sheep grazing here as part of a conservation strategy employed by the National Trust to control the aggressive rank grasses and scrub that would otherwise smother the important maritime grasslands.
- Passing more small islands and coves, the Coast Path descends into Porthcothan, goes along the road for a short distance to cross the stream, and then returns back onto the cliff tops. After about a mile you reach Porth Mear, owned by the National Trust.
Close to the path between here and Park Head are six Bronze Age burial mounds that probably date from 1200 BC and 2500 BC. Across the neck of Park Head is a cliff castle, with its two defensive banks separated by a ditch.
Note the traditional 'curzyway', or 'Jack and Jane', stone walls along the way, where the slates have been stacked in a herringbone pattern before being populated by delicate lichens and stoneworts. Clumps of the pink-headed thrift grow from their tops like thatch, and in places the hedge consists of tamarisk, a feathery-leaved Mediterranean plant which loves dry sandy soil.
Most perennial, slow-growing maritime species occur on sea cliffs. This is not because they need any specific characteristic in this habitat, such as salt, but because further inland they are easily smothered by more vigorous, faster-growing species. The high salt content of the air this close to the sea discourages or kills the terrestrial plants, giving the competitively inferior maritime species a better chance of flourishing.
Unusual plant species occurring along this section of the coast path include the tree mallow, with its massive pink flowers, and the golden samphire an edible plant looking a little like a handful of dwarf beans dotted with tiny yellow flowers. Rock sea lavender also thrives here, resembling heather with its lilac flowers, as does betony, whose purple heads are often humming with insects.
Park Head has fantastic views. It is a prominent windswept greenstone headland which is the site of an Iron Age cliff castle. You may see oystercatchers from here.
- As you head south from Park Head you get your first view of the rock stacks known as Bedruthan Steps.
These take their name from a giant called Bedruthan who used the stacks as stepping stones forming a short-cut across the bay. However it is claimed by some, that this is just a story made up in the late 19th century when it first became a tourist attraction, and 'the steps' actually take their name from the cliff staircase used to access the beach. Swimming here is hazardous.
Bedruthan Steps was a popular holiday location during the Victorian period. One of the stacks is named The Samaritan after the cargo ship of the same name which was wrecked here in 1846, providing the locals with barrels of food and silks.
- Just before Carnewas Island take the path inland to the National Trust carpark. Stop for refreshments or walk along the lane leading to the main road ( the B3276) At the end of the lane is the bus stop (by the Bedruthan House Hotel). From here catch the Western Greyhound 556 Padstow bus back to Portcothan.
- Get off the bus at Porthcothan Bay Stores. Walk gently uphill to the road leading off to the left, towards Treyarnon.
- Turn left onto this road and follow it past Carnevas on the right.
Under your feet at the top of the hill above Carnevas, although you won't see it, the bedrock contains rocks formed from mobile magma, a fluid lava brought to the surface by the eruption of volcanoes at the time that the slate beds were forming.
- Turn left at Trethias Farm and walk down the road back to the campsite.
Nearby refreshments
Porthcothan